just completed fitting a car type heater from T7 design. Basically consists of a heater matrix with fan compact unit about 12 inches square. I got a four outlet model, but after locating it to bottom right of the front engine access panel on the 190. I found two outlets to round car type flaps mounted under helm seatwas sufficient although some time in future might add to screen. Fused to switch on dash and plumbed to the two VW 16mm tubes designed for heater. Only extra was fitting mini 12v pump in the engine outlet hose routed to the heater. When fitted the heat is substantal from the outlets and remains quite warm upto 15 minutes after engine is not running. Power drain is low. Yes only works when engine is at normal temperature but makes a great difference to cabin comfort. I know espacher type do better job but this kit with hoses was no more than £200 max, and not to hard to fir although slight port locker space slightly reduced with pump and hose.
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DIY HEATER plumbed from VW engine
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Arvor Electrics
Any Arvor owner knows that the standard of their electrical installation and quality of their products can be very poor. I found out to my cost today that they can also be life threatening.
The forecasters got it wrong again today and we found ourselves punching back against a NW 6/7 which was supposed to be a 4/5. We had eight foot breaking waves right on the nose of the boat with every third or fourth wave going over the cabin roof. This was despite only travelling at 4 knots, all the conditions would allow.
We started to ship a lot of water that the scuppers could not clear quickly enough so it ended up in the bilges. With both bilge pumps going it was still not enough to clear the water which continued to rise even with vigorous pumping of the whale pump.
Recognising the potential danger we made for Bembridge harbour and safety. On the way in both bilge pumps packed up.
When tied up I got hold of a marine electrician who found that the pumps had been wired up with standard automotive connections which were not waterproof and had consequently failed under load.
If you have a similar set up it would be worthwhile stripping out the original installation and replacing it with waterproof materials.
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Scam Warning -Boat for Sale
Important - be aware someone is trying to pull a scam with a false ad for a 230AS on boats and outboards!
I know, as the photos are of my boat, and when I've enquired about the boat the guy has come back with a pile of nonsense!
Please do not get caught out - ad is listed as
Arvor 230 AS - Just 115 Hrs - Ideal Fishing Pleasure Boat (PAA51164) - on boats and outboards.
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Scam Warning -Boat for Sale
Important - be aware someone is trying to pull a scam with a false ad for a 230AS on boats and outboards!
I know, as the photos are of my boat, and when I've enquired about the boat the guy has come back with a pile of nonsense!
Please do not get caught out - ad is listed as
Arvor 230 AS - Just 115 Hrs - Ideal Fishing Pleasure Boat (PAA51164) - on boats and outboards.
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Cutless Bearing
Changed mine this week, easy to change the cutless bearing, but getting to it was a real pig of a job, my prop was locked on so tight that I had to use a highdrulic puller, it came off in the end with a big bang, also the small key thats located on the shaft that holds the prop in place was also a pig to remove (Moll grips and hammer)
I think my 210 Arvor 2007 has not had any works done in and around the prop before and has sat in salt water and locked on real tight,
So if anyone fancys a go at changing thier cutless make sure you have the right tools to do the job or like me at the start your struggle like f**k.
Big thanks to Dave for all the advise, (super star)
Michael
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Gas stove on Arvor 250as
Please refer to attached pic and please excuse my ignorance!
I am having trouble with the gas stove on my 2004 250AS.
1 Press down on on-off switch
2 Turn 90deg counter-clockwise
3 Light gas - gas burns fine
4 Hold on-off switch down for 10-60 seconds
5 Release on-off switch
6 Gas goes out(!)
Questions:
1 Are the parts labelled B, C and D known as a thermocouple?
2 Which parts out of A - D (if any) do I need to replace?
Any help would be much appreciated. This is the second most important bit on the boat - after the heater.
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Rope Trouble
Hi Guys,
I’m going to share with you my experience from yesterday for your thoughts (and hopefully reassurance) that everything is OK.
It was my intention to trailer my 215 out yesterday at high tide. (At 58 degrees north, off the north-west cost of Scotland our summer season is woefully short). Winter boat angling is a rarity.
Sods law being what it is, I thought I’d got for one last burn before getting the trailer organised so I headed out to some hard ground about two miles from the harbour to do some light tackle spinning for Pollack. Depth about thirty feet up to about ten feet.
After about an hour of fishing whilst keeping a wary eye and respectable distance from lobster pot buoys, - bang (!). I immediately slipped into neutral – I was probably doing no more than two or three knots at the time of impacting the rope. I was about midway between two buoys that were about 100m apart. My guess is that a heavy swell a couple of days earlier must have pushed the pots closer together with the result that the connecting rope that should have lying along the seabed was looped up somewhere closer to the surface.
The rope(s) wouldn’t budge so I cut both ends and tied a couple of my fenders on as markers. The fish finder was showing twelve at the time if impact.
First time ever had to call on my 6HP auxiliary (!) which thankfully started and got me back (eventually) to the safety of the harbour. No wind to speak of and slight sea conditions, not sure if a 6HP would be do the business if rougher conditions?
There doesn’t seem to be any damage at the gearbox end, no sign of movement etc. Hopefully this is just my memory playing tricks, but I remember a couple of years ago looking the gap between the back end of the stern gland and the front end of the prop and thinking that there wasn’t enough space to fit a rope cutter. I measured that gap today at 32mm. If I can upload photos you can see where the rope has ‘polished’ the shaft and gives me the impression that the gap is wider, (like I say I hope it’s my memory playing tricks)!!
The other slight worry I have is when I flushed the engine out with fresh water last night there was no water coming through the shaft/stern glad. I do recall that every other time that I flushed the engine on land that a fair amount of water used to come out the shaft /stern gland.
Tight lines to you guys who have the luxury of winter fishing!
Regards
Alex
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rusty water
Hi all,
over the Summer I had noticed a bit of rusty water in the bilges, it was coming from the exhaust area but due to the construction of my 21.5 (2006) model I could not find it, it was not that much to get worried about so I left it well alone.
This winter at layup I decided to fit a couple of lockers port and starboard aft to use up the wasted space in that area, I cut out a 20" square panel on each side for the hatch and found the source of my rusty water problem!! the exhaust skin fitting was red with rust and assorted engine soot gunk, it had been running down the side of the skin fitting and into the bilge via the small drainage holes in each corner of the lockers.
OK I have a bit of a problem, I got the help of a couple of pals and after a lot of swearing we managed to remove the old arvor supplied exhause hose, it was a right Bu**er to get out of the almost impossiable bends, we cut it away from the skin fitting with a grinder, the pipe clamps were the wrong size and the saddles were not in the correct place, the main reason for the rust was the poor quality hose used .
Once out, I cleaned the waterlock, which also showed signs of weeping, I removed the skinfitting and cleaned it up, it was held in with 6 small self tappers, which I bored out to 5mm and replaced with 5mm A4 bolts and lock nuts.
whilst the water lock was out, I fitted a small dinghy bung so I can drain it if ever needs be, the deck was given 2 coats of international bilge paint at the same time.
I bought 3 mts of the best Vetus 102mm hose I could get ( do not fancy doing this again!) with good quality A4 stainless wire coil, ( the original source of my rust staining)
if I thought getting it out was hard, it was wee buns compaired to getting it back in again, and unto the cleaned up skin fitting. but we managed, it took about 2hours in all, I also took the chance to change the bilge lines to better quality pipes and a non return valve into each for peace of mind.
I do not want to be a scaremonger but my fellow Arvor users I would never have found the source of my leek if I had not decided to make a couple of lockers, the quality of the old hose was poor, it was like an iron bar to get out and the wire was falling apart.
I would not like to think what would have happened if it had blown off or cracked, but I got it in time, may well be worth a look at lads. 
I do have several photos of what is in that area if anybody has the same problems, just get in touch with me via the forum and I can send them to you.
all the best
Kerry
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marine 16
i hadnt run the boat for a while other than to start it up and i noticed the fuel looked very dark drained the prefilter no water but some dirt this was unusual as i am extremly fussy with fuel panic have i got the dreaded BUG iphoned up marine 16 on 01639 841669 and spoke to some body about a test kit a test kit about £12,00 he suggested i saved my money treated the fuel with diesel fuel complete any way so i agreed this was the 11dec he said i have it by friday it didnt turn up hadnt turned up 20dec got credit card statement showing money taken on 12dec phoned said they would send sum more christmas came & went, still no fuel treatment started to think it was a con phoned up on 2jan they would send some more this time we used courier it came today the moral story they are very genuine company as they sounded all along and dont trust the post office to get it right marine16ltd are also starting do a fire retardant paint for boats galley and engine bays ect i would certainly us them again
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Navman Repairs
At long last I have been able to get out after various repairs and tweaking. I have done my o rings put a temp. gauge in and fitted an Aqua alarm, I also made a telescopic push/pull bar to help launching.
So I got up at silly o clock loaded all the spare fuel , back up engine and bacon and trundled down to the slip .The new launching bar was useful and after adapting the method the boat slipped off the trailer gracefully. I then ran the engine to adjust the aqua alarm , after some shouting I discovered that I had fitted it the wrong way round( who takes any notice of direction arrows anyway) but a few minutes work and all was well, a warm up making sure there were no leaks and we were on our way.
To start with the navman plotter worked ok , after taking ages to get a sat. fix , the sounder did not but I was hoping to sort that on route , I have a spare sounder. The plotter showed I was getting about 16.5 knots , happy days.
When we movedfrom our first mark due to the fog coming down the plotter took ages to get a fix and then the moment I tried to do anything it lost it fix so I decided to switch on the radar , that didnt want to play either , so it was back to the old days ,chart, compass and spare sounder
After a few attempts to cross sandbanks and going round in circles a couple of time we got to our mark . A seal then decided to come up next to the boat and bark and scared the life out of my brother in law.
Some while later we decided to move , the fog had gone and suddenly the radar started working and the plotter got a fix , which was great as we could now see the home port.
When we arrived back on the slipway I realized that we had not brought the second pair of waders to use in the recovery , god that water was cold on my pointy end.
So what I need to know is have many others has reliabilty issues the the navman instruments and does anyone know anywhere I can get them serviced .
By the way the fishing was rubbish unless you like lots of flatties.
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stern bumper
Hi all, just a short post to share something with you all, I almost always moor up to the pontoon starboard
side too, and when leaving I would sometimes bump the side of the pontoon, the dinghy I use to get out to the boat also hits into the diving platform,I have fitted a couple of strips of white D fender to the after starboard quarter, using the outboard bracket as stop for one end and a piece of varnished oak as the other, it saves my stern getting smacked and blends in quite well with the diving platform, it is secured with some 5mm stainless bolts and locknuts the holes being plugged afterwards total cost about £15 max
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Prop shaft removal
Hi guys,
I am planning to remove my prop shaft for inspection and a clean up and to replace the cutlass bearing next week, my question is do I have to remove the rudder completely to draw the shaft out after the prop is off? I plan also to send the prop to Clements for a "service and balance".
Cheers
Mark
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ARVOR 215 AND CUMMINS DIESEL
Hi all
just looking for your views and experiences on the Arvor 215 with Cummins diesel.
I have a Arvor 190 2007 which has been a good boat and i am more than happy with, but they don't make them any more..
so thinking its time for a change,
any views either from owners or any body would help, are there any problems that i should know about ......
from were i am in Anglesey its a good 6 hours drive just to see an arvor 215 so any help would be good...
thanks Allan
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Would I buy an Arvor again - not sure.
Being a 250 owner and new to this excellent website and forum, I am astonished by the number of similar problems we all seem to be experiencing, ranging form mechanical problems, paint flaking off of window frames to water ingress of some form or another.
Firstly, I cannot find an Arvor website anywhere. I know that they are made in Poland somewhere but other than that I have never seen any factory address or photos or even details of who they really are.
Given the number of Arvor boats out there now, I think it is fair to say that Arvor (whoever they are) have had some initial success and made a lot of money from boat sales.
Unless I have been walking around with blinkers on these past three years of 250as ownership, I still don't know who and where Arvor are and I think we should be able to speak to somebody there and at least be able to give them some genuine customer feedback, rather than having to deal with EBY Ltd who are just sales people.
Am I the only one who feels this way.
Having had the Arvor experience, and I include Cummins in that as well. I can honestly say if I had my sixty odd grand to spend again, I'd choose differently, probably Lochin,Evolution,Procharter and Volvo engine.
Hope I do not alienate myself from you all for saying this but until such time as I can find somebody who cares about my issues from ownership of an Arvor, and I include EBY in that, I shall continue to wish I hadn't bought one!
There, I've said it now and I feel better for it. Moan over.
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Which Battery is best?
Hi, its looking like its time to replace my old battery, how long its been there I do not know, I only have a one battery setup,
which battery is good enough for a nanni 85hp , I have found a Lucas 100Ah leisure battery , or 125Ah Explorer leisure battery so far, any of them okay?
Thank you
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happy days
Just put boat back in had prop balance and new cutlass bearing like a new boat 22 knots with tide at 2800 revs so smooth cant wait to get in again to put the cream on it plenty of Roker and six smothouds great Alan
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arvor boat
I am looking for good arvor with trailer if anyone can give me advice as to where I mite find a good 190 or 215 I am new to the site thank you
charles
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power steering 250AS
My steering is getting less positive and taking more turns of the wheel to turn boat any now where you top up the fluid, i see i have a screw cap on the steering unit right behind the wheel, any sujestions
Fred.
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Fuel gauge
When I turn on my auto bilge switch my fuel gauge goes to empty turn bilge off and back working any ideas
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Covers, Canopies and Spray Dodgers
After years of trying to find somebody reliable to manufacture and fit spray dodgers to my 250AS I dropped on a company called Cutncover from Christchurch.
Within a couple of days they came from Christchurch to Portsmouth, measured and templated the boat and then fitted the new dodgers one week later all for a ridiculously cheap price.
Being a 250as it was not easy making something suitable for the starboard side that still gave access to the bow but they managed it in great style.
The whole job is excellent, easy to put on and take off and gives a good deal of protection for the passengers.
They also made it in burgundy to match the hull and trim.
Wayne comes highly recommended. Visit his site at www.cutncover.co.uk
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